Rogan refers to the fat contained in the meat, and josh literally means “heat”, figuratively “intensity”. Traditionally, this dish is prepared from fatty meat with bones, it is cooked leisurely in its own fat and thus acquires an exceptionally intense flavor. In today’s very cholesterol-conscious times, animal fat is avoided and as little oil as possible is used instead. Rogan josh gets its “warmth” and intense flavor from the generous addition of “warm” spices such as black cardamom and cloves, which Hindus believe create internal heat.
The special characteristic of the dish as it is prepared in Kashmir is the lavish use of genuine Kashmiri chili spice, which is of restrained heat but gives the dish a bright red color. Muslims in Kashmir use praan, a type of shallot native to the region whose pleasant taste resembles garlic, and maval, the red leaves of cockscomb flowers, which accentuate the color of the dish even more and are said to have “cooling” properties. Kashmiri Hindus, on the other hand, do not use praan or other onions or garlic, but form the dish volume and flavor by stirring in yogurt. Kashmiri rogan josh differs from its other Indian variations by the use of ground fennel. I have studied the recipes of the Hindus and Mosl
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